I just want to start this blog with “I AM NOT A GROOMER”. Now that we have that out of the way, I can give you an idea how to keep your pet poodle hair from looking shabby. I took this video in my bathroom instead of out in the garage on the grooming table. It is cold outside and the lighting is really not great for video. I decided on a top down view, hoping it would let you see what I was seeing.
If you must have the exact same pin brush as I have you can go to greyhoundcomb.com There are lots of brushes out there and for a pet, just picking up something at the local pet supply store is probably fine. I sprung for the high cost brush when I was growing coat on Mocha. I needed something that fit my hand well so it wouldn’t cramp (carpal tunnel!). I picked it up at a show after talking to a few venders and other Poodle show people about my options. It has lasted a long while, and the dogs seem to like it (doesn’t scratch their skin). If you are grooming an older dog, go with a pin brush, because their skin and hair are both thinning. You do not want to scratch them and make them bleed or get an infection.
If you can only buy one brush and you do not shave your dog bald, go with a slicker brush. It is the best all around pet brush, because it separates the hair quickly. You must be gentle or your dog will start to HATE brushing time. It also creates a ton of static, so keep some conditioning spray nearby. You can use a human product, don’t get all worked up about needing to use dog versions of everything. Most of the time I use Pantene Mist Detangler on both Kenzie and the dogs. Lina I use Ice on Ice (dog product), but there is no reason to go out and buy a special product for your pet Poodle. When looking for a good slicker brush, do not get the softest. You can go to your local pet supply store and just start feeling of how they are made. Different brands are harder and softer, just feel them and see which you think might work best for your dog. Pull back the wires and see how flexible they are. If they are really soft, you will be frustrated with the brushes ability to make it though the hair. Also, bigger is NOT better. Get something you can handle, if the slicker’s head is much bigger than the palm of your hand, it is likely a larger brushing surface than you will be able to use.
The metal comb can be bought at almost any local pet supply store. It is nice to help check for mats in the coat, as well as pick them out. It isn’t a must have if you simply plan to keep the dog brushed out between professional grooming trips. If you are doing your own grooming, it is extremely handy to have for parting hair, insuring you have all the mats out of the hair, and pushing the hair over for shaping.
You can spend a ton of money on specialty products for these dogs. There are fancy slicker brushes that run $60-$100 a brush. I do not have any and likely never will. I’ll spring for a decent pin brush for $35, and I will drop some money on good sheers because they keep my carpal tunnel from making my hands go numb. I just cannot justify some of these other products for pet trims.
I hope this helps a little!
Before you watch this video please go read my previous blog post on How to use commands correctly. It will help you better understand what I am doing and why.
This video will focus on how to work with a shy dog by building interest in training, learning how to get the dog eager to interact, and then shaping behaviors. My end goal is eye contact, held for a few seconds at most.
It is very important with a shy dog to have a quiet body and voice. I am speaking loudly to the camera, but I am making sure I am not looking directly towards Lina while speaking. When I interact with her I keep it happy, sweet, and calm. Eventually, the dog will gain enough confidence to feel comfortable in what they are doing, thus less likely to revert to submissive behaviors. For now, I keep it very low key.
I’m going to attempt to video many of our training sessions over the next few weeks. Some I might post as trick training or obedience shaping, but mostly I want to journal her progress. She is 300% better than when she arrived and gains confidence every single day. It would be neat to have a record of her progress and show how it was done, as well as noting any stumbling blocks we hit and how best to move forward. Dog training is fluid. You have to be willing to try something else if one concept isn’t working. There is no one right way to do anything in this world. If you ask 5 dog trainers how to teach a dog to do the weave polls, you will probably get 5 different answers. Channels, weave-a-matic, 2 by 2, guide wires, etc all will teach weaves. Some teach a better understanding, like 2 by 2, but you really need a higher drive dog for the method to work. If your dog is lower drive and not very toy motivated, channels x guide wires OR channels x weave-a-matic or weave-a-matic and guide wires might be a better method. My point is, you need to find what works for each dog.
The best dog trainers are always learning new things. I started a Nose Work class with Jazz. Why? Because watching a dog use its nose is awesome! Also I wanted to see what training method was being used to teach the sport and why. I will train Jazz as directed by the class and only use their methods while in the class. When I train River and Lina, we will see if I stay the course or try a more structured method of shaping. I do not believe one method rules them all. Neither should you. If you feel a trainer or training method is not suitable, dump it and look for another way. Remember, there is always another way.
I had a request from one of the new puppy owners to do a blog on ear care. Here is a video of me plucking one of River’s ears.
My ear care is really basic. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I pull hair from inside the ear every few months, but otherwise I leave them alone. Neither Jazz or River have seasonal allergies, so this is all that is needed. So far, Lina also has great ears. If you have a dog with season allergies, try to clean out their ears before they flare. Now or over the next month, work on getting as much hair out as you safely can in a very slow manner. Do not give their ears any reason to flare up, so do not pull it all out at once. You would be best breaking it up into 5 or so sessions over a week or two time frame. When spring hits, having their ears cleaned out will be a lifesaver. Then if they do get an infection, you can easily treat the issue. Some dogs here in TX have Oak allergies, so once those oaks start dropping pollen, the poor dogs pop an ear infection every time. If you can stack the odds in your favor, by staying ahead of any issues, you will be better off.
I did make a video of Lina working attention and I will post that tomorrow I think. Youtube is having some trouble with my video. It isn’t showing up, hopefully I can fix the issue and get that posted.
OH and I haven’t forgotten Summer’s request for grooming information on brushes and how to brush. I just need to find more hours in the day. I hope to go over basic grooming next week.
I’m doing a series of blogs on basic concepts of dog training. The last post was on Location, Distance, and Time. If you haven’t read it, please do that first.
In this one I will cover how to use a command correctly.
For best results in training, I first teach the dog what I want without speaking. I use a clicker or a verbal “yes” to mark a behavior. You can lure the dog into position or physically put them in position, then mark with a ‘yes’ and give them a treat. I will do this over and over until I know the dog is likely to do the behavior. Then I will add the word for that behavior when the dog is doing it without a lot of help from me. Why is this better? Because you do not have to time the word to the action. You want the dog doing the action before you give it a name. Less things for the puppy to remember. Less verbal clutter for them to have to deal with when learning what you want. Let’s say you wanted to learn sign language. It would be easier first to learn how to make the sign, then learn what that sign means? Correct? Same thing with dog training. Teach the position, then teach them the word. Breaking up training into steps makes for quicker learning long term. When the dog is older, you can add a word to a behavior much sooner, because they know it will have a name. They understand the game. Right now with puppy training, they haven’t a clue what all this is really about.
So the order of training would be:
1. Teach the behavior.
2. Link the behavior to the word and/or hand signal, until you are pretty sure the dog knows the new name of the behavior.
3. Test the dog to see if they know the behavior by asking for it by name alone (or hand signal). If they do not respond, place the into that position by luring, using the leash, or using your hands. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
There are a few rules.
1. When you ask a dog to do something, ask once then lure or place the dog into that position. Sometimes you will wait a moment to see if the dog understands the command. That is fine, but do not repeat your command if they fail to respond. If they are not focused on you and are distracted, you need to work on attention training and focus, then move back to obedience. Without the dog’s attention, you will get little accomplished. Nothing produces a deaf dog like “Sit, sit, sit, siiiittt, SIT”. Be consistent. Ask them to sit… then if they do not sit, place them into a sit.
2. You need to have a clear understand of what you mean by the command you use. What do you want ‘come’ to mean? Is it ‘you must be near me now, no questions, this is not a drill’. Or does it mean ‘Hey, let’s keep moving, get over this way we have stuff to do’. It can’t mean both. You need to be consistent in the use of your commands. This will make for a better trained puppy who fully understands what you mean at all times. If I say “Let’s Go” my dogs know I want them to get near me and keep moving forward, we are not stopping to visit, etc”. If I say “Come” it means “return to me now and sit in front of me”. This is a control word for a dangerous situation. If they hear ‘come’ they know I mean business and better get their butts moving now. A similar thing happens with ‘stay’ and ‘wait’ in my home. If I tell the dogs to ‘wait’ it means to hold back and wait for a second command to follow. Something is going to happen very soon. On the other hand, ‘stay’ means do not move your butt for any reason at all until I return to your side. Stay is a safety command with rigid rules. Wait is more subjective and means ‘patience grasshopper’.
3. If you can’t make something happen, do not ask for it. If you can’t make your dog “come”, do not use the word “come” until you have trained it enough you feel pretty darn sure that dog will come. Instead of saying ‘come’ to a young puppy with little training, you simply go get that puppy when you need to do something with them. If you can’t keep up with your puppy and they are running off, you need to have them drag a line so you can control them without stress to you or the dog. Then you need to train more recalls.
4. When you are done with training a concept, release the dog by using a word. I use “FREE”. Some folks use “OK”. Whatever you want to use is fine, but having a release word is nice so the dog knows when they can be less focused on you and are free to move around.
One thing to note, dogs pick up hand signals very quickly because they are visual communicators. I generally suggest teaching the verbal first, then later adding a hand signal.
The next post will be on building eye contact to gain focus with your dog and will include a video. As Lina is a very submissive dog and does not like eye contact, I am going to video her and attempt to show what to look for and how to encourage it with your new dog. The pups I raised should not have any issue with eye contact. I have worked them over and over, showing them it is not threatening and building their confidence. However, you need to put it on cue, it will make your life so much easier in the long run.
Location, Distance, and Time will directly influence every thing you do with your dog. In this blog post I will attempt to help you understand each of these and what they mean when training. Every single thing you teach your dog will be tested by these three factors.
Location: When you increase (CHANGE) the location, the dog will regress in training.
Distance: When you increase the distance, the dog will regress in training.
Time: When you increase the time, the dog will regress in training.
So, how do you juggle the training of a young dog with these three factors? The best way is to only increase one and at the same time decrease the other two.
Let’s say you are working on a sit stay. You will first teach this concept in your home. The location is familiar and thus less of a distraction. A nice quiet room, some treats, some toys, and your dog. Training can now begin. In this location you can teach sit stay, but you would do it up close, with no real distance from the dog or puppy. What you will be working on is time. At first you will reward the sit every few seconds. Then increase the time between treats. If you decided to step away from the puppy, thus increasing distance, you will now decrease time (step away, step back, treat for staying). You will slowly add time to your distance (step a way, two breathes, step back, treat), in the familiar location.
In this example you: DECREASE LOCATION, DECREASE DISTANCE, INCREASE TIME , then DECREASE LOCATION, DECREASE TIME, INCREASE DISTANCE
Now your puppy has had a few training sessions of 10 minutes each. His ability to hold his sit stay with you up close is incredible. With you across the room, he seems calm and comfortable for a minute or two. Move the location. You can go outside, either back or front yard, but when you do you will need to decrease both distance and time. It might only take a few moments for the puppy to grasp he needs to hold that stay outside, but there will probably be a moment where you have to remind him what he is doing. This is good! Without a mistake, the puppy cannot learn. Remember increase time first, then increase distance.
In this example you: INCREASED LOCATION, DECREASED TIME AND DISTANCE.
The training needed to proof these concepts becomes less as you go. What took you 2-3 training rounds in your home when learning a new concept, might take one or two outside, then only one at the park around a bunch of kids. The dog will start understanding “Oh, I have to do this everywhere we go”. There might be a place that causes your dog to go into complete spasms of delight. For Jazz it is watching other dogs run in Agility or Lure Coursing. If that is the case, you will have to decrease location (get farther from the fun) until you have the dogs mind back on you, then you can work on training. Always keep these concepts in your mind and if your dog is having trouble, you will need to decrease one or two until full understanding is achieved.
A word about distractions. This is a 4th factor in your training, yet it is often linked to location. You can control the amount of distraction’s a location has by time of day. The park at 5AM or 8PM is less crowded than at 8AM and 5PM, as an example. Train during a less busy time, then go back and train when the distraction level has increased and see how your pup does. The same holds true for walks around the neighborhood. Remember you will need to decrease time and distance, when increasing to a distracting location.
If you cannot go outside without your puppy thinking everything is more fun than working, you need to do a few things.
1. Make sure the puppy has acquitted exercise. Go for walks, make sure you play some ball and burn off a little bit of energy.
2. Give the puppy a clue you are about to work by saying “Ready to work?” and show them the treats and leash. Get them focused on what you are doing. If they do not want to work, back inside and to the crate for a short nap, then try again.
3. If they are not highly food motivated, make them work for a meal. Switch one meal to something suitable for training like boiled/grilled Chicken, Bil Jac frozen food, Fresh Pet, freeze dried raw food, etc. Something you feel comfortable giving them as a meal, but also something supper yummy and easy to eat as a training treat (not to squishy!!) Break the meal up into 2 trainings in the evening will work well, with a ‘jackpot’ at the end for doing such a super job (meaning you do not have to train until the food is gone, just give it to them in one big lump). If they blow you off when you go outside, back in the crate, no meal. Try again in 15 minutes. Repeat as needed.
When I post a training video or blog, understand each time I do something with my dogs, these concepts are inherent in my work. I will jump back and forth, decreasing my time, increasing my distance, switching them up so the dog doesn’t get bored, pushing the dog’s limits yet always keeping these in my mind and how the dog might react in each situation. I will test, see if a dog can handle the stay, like I did on the video with Sonata. I watch my environment. A car drives by, I will decrease my distance from the dog. A bunch of kids run up, I decrease my distance and maybe even release the dog depending on where we are in training. This is why an experienced trainer makes training a dog (horse, cat, bird, dolphin) look easy. They unconsciously live these concepts without thought. It is like driving a car. We have been doing it for years, with many different animals. We makes fewer mistakes, and because of this the dog has a clear understanding of what is wanted. With time it will become easier, just as driving a car and knowing the rules of the road. However, these first few months will be hard. You will feel overwhelmed and it will seem like you are constantly messing up. Do not feel bad. We have all been there. Enjoy the experience and relish in the fact you are learning! The quickest way to stay young is to constantly challenge the mind.
Maybe that should be my new mantra… Youth through dog training!!!
PS. Camping this weekend was so much fun. The kids and dogs had a blast and it was a much needed break. Here is a photo just because.
SIT! STAY!! SMILE!!! GOOD JOB!!!!